Liliia Zdor and her team* talk about a fur overall

“This fur overall shows obvious signs of wear: scrapes on the sleeves, and greasy patches on the chest fur and trim. The garment is stitched from three pelts – all taken from a one-year-old reindeer calf, slaughtered in summer. The opening around the neck and the sleeves are trimmed with dog fur, and the straps are made from seal skin. The overall we see here closely resembles modern versions in both cut and construction.

Today, such fur overalls are worn only in reindeer herder camps. In settlements, they’ve become rare, mainly due to the decline in reindeer populations. Village homes are warm, and there's less need for outdoor-appropriate clothing. Fur is still worn mostly by hunters and fishermen. Like all Chukchi winter clothing, the overall uses a double-layered construction. The inner layer is sewn from two adult reindeer pelts—denser and better at retaining warmth. The outer layer uses three pelts from a large reindeer calf. The sleeves are intentionally made wide to allow freedom of movement for work. The inner overall is warm and fluffy. Decorative trim is made from wolverine or dog fur. Pelts used for clothing come from reindeer slaughtered in the autumn, when the animals were well-nourished and the fur is at its best. The hide is laid out on the ground to air-dry in the wind. It is softened by wetting with water and scraping clean using a special tool called enanvenan. Then the hide is rubbed with reindeer summer droppings, rolled up, and left overnight. Finally, the leather is softened by working it with the heels of the hands. Sometimes this softening process is repeated several times.

Irina adds: “My great-grandmother Yanrainau had three overalls. One was ceremonial, made of brightly spotted reindeer pelts—she wore it on festive days or when visiting someone. She did daily work in the ordinary overall, made from adult reindeer pelts. The third she used when traveling with the herd.” (Video in progress)

* Liliia Zdor, Galina Etul', Irina Gyrgol'naut, Irina Nutetgivev and Mark Zdor.

Self-recorded. Fairbanks, 2024.